Coolest. Thing. Ever.

OK, an overstatement. But the Rocca Maggiore was fascinating and fun. It was bare bones, meaning they didn't add galleries, restore/change a lot. Rather, with the exception of lights, railings, walkways and window panes, the fort basically is as it was centuries ago.

What made it so much fun was that not only were there plenty of tiny and almost hidden stairwells and paths, but that they all were open. Many places like this don't let you roam free. Not the case here.

I actually started laughing out loud each time I found another tiny stairway leading somewhere; most went to archer lookouts -- one of which featured a bird that had nested on the other side of the window, quite literally making it a crow's nest (sniper jargon ... I think).

Anyway, there only were a few signs explaining the history of the place, but enough to get a taste. And it was more about halls that were barely high enough to stand in and stairwells too narrow to turn around (i actually had to back down the steps). Then there were several spiral staircases -- some original stone, one added later. All these led to soldier quarters, bigger rooms, various nooks and crannies (Owen, your head would have exploded), patio-like areas, all the archer lookouts and, best of all, the towers.

The views were outstanding.

The fort already sits atop the hill, and the towers allow for views of Assisi, San Francesco's, etc., and the valley around. The only downer was the drizzly weather, as the haziness limited the view a little. Still, had it been sunny, it might have been 85 degrees -- meaning everyone trying to make the tiring climb up the hill probably would have collapsed on the way.

If you want a lot of art and suits of armor in a castle, this isn't for you. But a well-preserved stone mammoth with fun paths and spectacular views? Ladies and gents, we have a winner.

In fact, I tried to tell the man working in the trailer that passed as a ticket counter that this was a great experience, mostly because they hadn't really messed with it. He couldn't really follow ... And when I said "authentic," it was all over.

FUN FACT: Members of the Franciscan order set up missions in what now is California. Included were San Francisco, Santa Clara (St. Clare's church and tomb also are in Assisi) and, of course, Fontana.

Or maybe LA was that last one.

On the way down the hill I walked through a quieter residential area. As I mentioned in the last entry, the streets, alleys, buildings (and homes) and stairwells were awe-inspiring.

There is shopping and eating here, and also way too many souvenir shops in the main areas. But the charm of this town -- the tomb, the fort, the architecture -- comes from places that haven't really changed over the years, where the locals haven't tried too hard.

On train now on way to Florence. I think/hope. There's really little evidence supporting that claim. If I can learn Italian in the next half-hour, maybe I can figure out where the hell I am.

In the meantime, I'll continue to contemplate whether Indiana Jones really is better than Stegosaurus. That's a tough one.